Sunday, January 20, 2013

5 perennials for shade gardens

Which 5 perennials for shade gardens you would like to have planted in your garden?

The five choices described below are to provide you with a starting point to get some plants into the shade areas of your gardening projects. I hope these few examples will encourage you to investigate using more types of shade plants that you can choose from throughout this site.

Most flowering plants typically like quite a bit of sunshine but there are also a great number of plants that prefer shady conditions and will do very well in shade.
It's great that there are such a variety of plants that like either sun or shade because a garden that is either fully shaded or fully exposed to the sunlight all the time is rare. There are always different patches in gardens where the light levels change throughout the day and seasons, and it is possible to create a beautiful arrangement of flowers if you know their lighting preferences.

You can have a beautiful shade garden area to sit in when you want to shelter from that summer heat. In shaded areas of your garden you can relax, read your favourite book, enjoy a cup of coffee - gaze at the beauty of your flowers, listen to the sounds of birds, and watch the colourful butterflies.

Usually people prefer to plant taller perennials in the background, near the house, garage or trees, middle sized plants in the centre, and the shortest plants at the front or inner part of the plot.

But of course different variants are possible; just make sure your plants have their blooming periods at different times of the season.

Astilbe Plants

One of the easiest perennials to plant and maintain. It comes in three main colors: white, pink or red, and different varieties grow to twenty, thirty and forty inches in height. It looks amazingly beautiful if planted in groups and/or in different color combinations, and its fluffy spikes of flowers create a great effect.

Lily Of the Valley

This plant looks humble and beautiful in its simplicity. Its bell shaped white flowers will bring a special charm to your shade garden and fill it with a fragrance. It can be used for a ground cover as it grows only up to six inches. Besides that, it is not difficult to take care of this plant, basic requirements are sufficient.

Foxglove Plant

This is a tall plant as it can reach up to five feet in height. That is why foxglove plants are perfect for the back row in your flower arrangement. Its large spikes with bell shaped flowers will bring a splash of color to your garden, ranging from purple to white. Be careful though as this pant is poisonous. Make sure it is out of reach of small children and pets.

Virginia Blue Bells

As you can make out from the name of this plant, its flowers are bell shaped and lavender blue in color. The plant is medium sized and grows up to around two feet high. In spite of having such tender flowers, this plant is actually very hardy and requires very little maintenance.

Lousiana Iris

This plant grows about two feet tall and produces four inch blooms. It also has a long flowering period which makes it an attractive option to plant it in your garden. The flowers are purple with a kind of velvety effect and are exceedingly beautiful. For a better view it is recommended to plant these perennials in groups.

Of course, this list is very short and does not contain all the wonderful plants you can choose from, but these 5 perennials for shade gardens would make a perfect start or addition to your existing landscape.

Saturday, January 19, 2013

16 Foods That’ll Re-Grow from Kitchen Scraps

There’s nothing like eating your own home- grown vegies, and there are heaps of different foods that will re- grow from the scrap pieces that you’d normally throw out or put into your compost bin.
It’s fun. And very simple … if you know how to do it.
Just remember … the quality of the “parent” vegetable scrap will help to determine the quality of the re-growth. So, wherever possible, I recommend buying local organic produce, so you know your re-grown plants are fresh, healthy and free of chemical and genetic meddling.

Leeks, Scallions, Spring Onions and Fennel

You can either use the white root end of a vegetable that you have already cut, or buy a handful of new vegetables to use specifically for growing.
Simply place the white root end in a glass jar with a little water, and leave it in a sunny position. I keep mine in the kitchen window. The green leafy part of the plant will continue to shoot. When it’s time to cook, just snip off what you need from the green growth and leave the white root end in water to keep growing. Freshen up the water each week or so, and you’ll never have to buy them again.


Lemongrass grows just like any other grass. To propagate it, place the root end (after you’ve cut the rest off) in a glass jar with a little water, and leave it in a sunny position.
Within a week or so, new growth will start to appear. Transplant your lemongrass into a pot and leave it in a sunny outdoor position. You can harvest your lemongrass when the stalks reach around a foot tall – just cut off what you need and leave the plant to keep growing.

Celery, Bok Choi, Romaine Lettuce & Cabbage

Similar to leeks, these vegetables will re-grow from the white root end. Cut the stalks off as you normally would, and place the root end in a shallow bowl of water – enough to cover the roots but not the top of your cutting. Place it in a sunny window position, occasionally spraying your cutting with water to keep the top moist.
After a few days, you should start to see roots and new leaves appear. After a week or so, transplant it into soil with just the leaves showing above the level of the soil. The plant will continue to grow, and within a few weeks it will sprout a whole new head.
Alternatively you can plant your cutting directly into soil (without starting the process in water) but you will need to keep the soil very moist for the first week until the new shoots start to appear. 


Ginger is very easy to re-grow. Simply plant a spare piece of ginger rhizome (the thick knobbly bit you cook with) in potting soil with the newest (ie. smallest) buds facing upward. Ginger enjoys filtered, not direct, sunlight in a warm moist environment.
Before long it will start to grow new shoots and roots. Once the plant is established and you’re ready to harvest, pull up the whole plant, roots and all. Remove a piece of the rhizome, and re-plant it to repeat the process.
Ginger also makes a very attractive house-plant, so if you don’t use a lot of ginger in your cooking you can still enjoy the lovely plant between harvests.


Re-growing potatoes is a great way to avoid waste, as you can re-grow potatoes from any old potato that has ‘eyes’ growing on it. Pick a potato that has robust eyes, and cut it into pieces around 2 inches square, ensuring each piece has at least one or two eyes. Leave the cut pieces to sit at room temperature for a day or two, which allows the cut areas to dry and callous over. This prevents the potato piece from rotting after you plant it, ensuring that the new shoots get the maximum nutrition from each potato piece.
Potato plants enjoy a high-nutrient environment, so it is best to turn compost through your soil before you plant them. Plant your potato pieces around 8 inches deep with the eye facing upward, and cover it with around 4 inches of soil, leaving the other 4 inches empty. As your plant begins to grow and more roots appear, add more soil. If your plant really takes off, mound more soil around the base of the plant to help support its growth.


You can re-grow a plant from just a single clove – just plant it, root-end down, in a warm position with plenty of direct sunlight. The garlic will root itself and produce new shoots. Once established, cut back the shoots and the plant will put all its energy into producing a tasty big garlic bulb. And like ginger, you can repeat the process with your new bulb.


Onions are one of the easiest vegetables to propagate. Just cut off the root end of your onion, leaving a ½ inch of onion on the roots. Place it in a sunny position in your garden and cover the top with soil. Ensure the soil is kept moist. Onions prefer a warm sunny environment, so if you live in a colder climate, keep them in pots and move them indoors during frostier months.
As you use your home-grown onions, keep re-planting the root ends you cut off, and you’ll never need to buy onions again.

Sweet Potatoes

When planted, sweet potato will produce eye-shoots much like a potato. Bury all or part of a sweet potato under a thin layer of soil in a moist sunny location. New shoots will start to appear through the soil in a week or so. Once the shoots reach around four inches in height, remove them and re-plant them, allowing about 12 inches space between each plant. It will take around 4 months for your sweet potatoes to be ready. In the meantime, keep an eye out for slugs… they love sweet potatoes.
To propagate sweet potatoes, it is essential to use an organic source since most commercial growers spray their sweet potatoes to prevent them from shooting.


Mushrooms can be propagated from cuttings, but they’re one of the more difficult veggies to re-grow. They enjoy warm humidity and nutrient-rich soil, but have to compete with other fungus for survival in that environment. Although it is not their preferred climate, cooler environments give mushrooms a better chance of winning the race against other fungi.
Prepare a mix of soil and compost in a pot (not in the ground) so your re-growth is portable and you can control the temperature of your mushroom. I have found most success with a warm filtered light during the day and a cool temperature at night. Just remove the head of the mushroom and plant the stalk in the soil, leaving just the top exposed. In the right conditions, the base will grow a whole new head. (In my experience, you’ll know fairly quickly if your mushroom has taken to the soil as it will either start to grow or start to rot in the first few days).


To re-grow pineapples, you need to remove the green leafy piece at the top and ensure that no fruit remains attached. Either hold the crown firmly by the leaves and twist the stalk out, or you can cut the top off the pineapple and remove the remaining fruit flesh with a knife (otherwise it will rot after planting and may kill your plant). Carefully slice small, horizontal sections from the bottom of the crown until you see root buds (the small circles on the flat base of the stalk). Remove the bottom few layers of leaves leaving about an inch base at the bottom of the stalk.
Plant your pineapple crown in a warm and well drained environment. Water your plant regularly at first, reducing to weekly watering once the plant is established. You will see growth in the first few months but it will take around 2-3 years before you are eating your own home-grown pineapples.

And one for the kids….. ‘Pet’ Carrot Tops!!

I call this a ‘pet’ because the plant that re-grows from planting a carrot top will NOT produce edible carrots, only a new carrot plant. The vegetable itself is a taproot which can’t re-grow once it has been removed from the plant. But it makes an attractive flowering plant for the kitchen, and they’re easy and lots of fun to grow…. for kids of all ages!
Cut the top off your carrot, leaving about an inch of vegetable at the root. Stick toothpicks into the sides of the carrot stump and balance it in a glass or jar. Fill the glass with water so that the level reaches the bottom of the cutting. Leave the glass in filtered, not direct, sunlight and ensure water is topped up to keep the bottom of your cutting wet. You’ll see roots sprout in a few days, and you can transplant your ‘pet’ carrot into soil after a week or so.
Your success re-growing lovely fresh vegies from scrap may vary, depending on your climate, the season, soil quality and sunlight available in your home or garden. And some vegies just propagate easier than others do. In my experience, a bit of trial and error is required, so don’t be afraid to do some experimenting. Get your hands dirty. It’s lots of fun! And there’s nothing like eating your own home-grown vegies.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

All trimmed and ready for winter

Trimmed this rose of Sharon back so trunk gets thicker...
Cut back all perennials for winter!
Grass is bad!  Grubs this yr  treated with nematodes in Sept! Should do the trick!
Mans best friends  Mower, blower and a chair to enjoy work performed!
Trimmed Clematis back this fall  was a wee bit too big...will renew  for next spring!

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Hosta - A gardener’s best friend


One of the best-selling perennials in America is treasured not for its flowers but for its foliage.  Hosta has won the hearts of gardeners across the Country

A Variety of Hosta

A remarkable tolerance for shade and cold, resistance to insects and incomparable beauty and variety make these perennials simply irresistible.  Rippled, smooth, ruffled or ribbed, leaves range in size from petite (three-quarters-inch long) to giant (22 inches long).  Foliage colors include bright yellows, cool blues, and just about every shade of green imaginable.  Foliage edged in white, streaked with gold, or striped in contrasting tones of emerald and cream provide ample opportunity for designing one-of-a-kind beds and borders.  According to the American Hosta Society, there are more than 30 hosta hybridizers at work in the United States alone.  Cultivars with showier, fragrant blossoms have been cropping up in nurseries, expanding the palette still further.  Old as well as new cultivars bloom with white or lavender flowers in late summer, just when a splash of color is needed most.

Site selection:  While hostas tolerate a range of soils in USDA Zones 3 to 10, slightly acidic soil, amended with organic matter, produces the most vigorous growth.  At least two and a half hours of morning sun are needed for the richest coloration; yellows need more sun, blues less.

Planting:  Plant rhizomes anytime, with large-leaved specimens no closer than two feet apart.  If possible, mulch the first winter with pine needles or boughs to prevent heaving.

Care:  Young hostas need two seasons or more to mature, and require regular watering during dry spells.  Before spring growth appears, put down a ring of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around the crown of the plant (never allow fertilizers to touch plant ‘eyes’).  While some gardeners divide their hostas every five years or so, it is not essential.

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Great guy! Ask the Exterminator!

Ask the Exterminator is produced and written by Rick Steinau, President of Ace Exterminating Company, Cincinnati, Ohio, USA.
Rick has been involved in the pest control industry since 1963 in one capacity or another. Beginning as a replacement technician for vacationing full-time technicians, Rick was exposed to many different situations including residential, commercial and institutional accounts. He also worked on many termite crews using products ranging from chlordane to chloropicrin.
His pest control experiences include general pest control, termite control, fumigation, animal trapping, bird exclusion, ISO, Siliker, Yumm Brands and AIB audit account setups.
"Ask the Exterminator", says Mr. Steinau, "is written for the non-professional looking for clear, honest answers. I often include a humorous look at problems, but always try to make the problem resolution as simple and inexpensive as possible."
Mr. Steinau operates his company with the mission of giving his customers only what they need to fix their pest issues. "I don't believe in overselling and I strongly believe that most pest issues can be corrected using little or no pesticides."